Hello Friends
Video clips are working............it was pilot error!

I am just back in the United States and will once again be posting on my blog. This one will be short with more to come. I have been very busy since returning and hope to come back here regularly to keep friends informed of the new plans for sailing and voyaging aboard the little boat.

Spirits. I sailed into and through one of the remotest places on earth and anchored where I could. This meant at times in places where the Yaghan anchored. It was always interesting to hear the screaming winds and to feel these places in the black of night.

I know a place...............where I am certain................... What people they must have been to live in such a place.
Selecting topographic maps last year in Santiago. 
I carried both nautical charts and topographic maps. I used only charts, compass, a watch, topo maps and pencil on paper. I did not use a GPS, nor carry a calculator or electronic nav program/chart plotter and carried no recorded music or radio other than a VHF. I had a satellite phone for communicating with school kids and an In Reach Delorme for use in keeping the Armada current on my course. Daily updates and tracking is a strict requirement by the Armada for any vessel private or commercial sailing their waters. 

I sailed for solitude, to learn new skills and to experience the grandeur of the place. The challenge of navigating old school has always been my way and I was fascinated by the inherent challenges in navigating the islands, which are by any measure extremely difficult to understand. Joshua Slocum and many more have become lost and disoriented in the Southwest islands. Daily navigation was an excellent brain exercise to augment the small library of books I brought. Fortunately my navigation was spot on with the exception of one five hour period one day.

The El Decano

The David family. Owners of the best place to stay in Punta Arenas. I look forward to staying with them again. In December a film crew was along and all of us stayed there, excellent! 
These people became close friends.
The photo above is my boat crated and ready (well almost) to she out of Punta Arenas. I did tack down the cover tarps a bit more. Today is April 6th and she sits awaiting pickup and delivery to the customs dock and ship.
Here she is with my friend Marcelo (Armada de Chile). Marcelo and his daughter were with me on several occasions and Marcelo has become quite the friend. 

On the beach, Strait of Magellan
View from the fishing boat ElDecano as we made our way south to rescue my boat.
We got her!

John and me in the wheel house of the ElDecano

My brothers John, Patricio and their families. Also Marcelo and his daughter. Great folks.





On the beach prior to departure on the Strait of Magellan. Sailing the Strait of Magellan was one of the more difficult sails I have made in my life.

Once I crossed the Strait to the infamous Dawson Island and south then everything became quite complex and even harder but I was OK with that as I knew coming in how hard it would be. I feel quite good about having sailed such a small boat south on the Strait. According to officers in the Armada they have no smaller boat in their records, so either I am just plain odd or perhaps crazy but I have to say I had a fantastic challenge and resultant experience.

My boat was everything I expected of all 11' 11" of it. SCAMP like many small boats is not designed for such a voyage but I did my best to modify her to work and work she did. I was very pleased. Southern Cross is not meant to be the fastest, the best looking, most able, toughest, but I have to say for such a tiny boat she did everything I wanted her to do and I am very glad I took the time to develop her as I did.




The recovery of Southern Cross. This was somewhat of an ultimate challenge as we not only raced the weather and long odds but we also raced another larger, faster better equipped boat that seemed bent on salvaging Southern Cross. Here we are in the Beagle Channel.

We got her and it was an almost impossible job! Here we are headed to Puerto Williams in some very cold weather. This is about 7am. We anchored near the base of a glacier on the Beagle Channel and it snowed during the night. We pushed hard the day before and came into the anchorage in driving sleet/rain mix and absolute pitch black. It was a piece of work to get in and anchored.

Please check back here often as I will now make time to continue the story of my experiences.

Thank you to all of you who have followed my trip, I am not done yet!


Normal
My poco casa (little house) Southern Cross is located just north of Punta Arenas at the Nao Victoria Museum. Here aboard Southern Cross I am practicing my voyaging strategy, which is patience.
I could leave at any time but actually won't, to do so would be a fools errand. The normal here is happening for a few days, big winds! I have been tracking weather far to the west in the Southern Ocean and predicted a wild and wooly system would pass through, it's here with a vengeance. Last night the temperature dropped to 41F and the wind kicked in. During the night it blew up to over 40 knots and is sticking in for the next three days. It's a big low out of the Roaring Forties and I plan to ride the back side of it out of here. There is a significant window of opportunity coming. As much as I'd like to report that I have set out I haven't and won't until I know it's right.

There has been pressure all along through this project from some folks who want derring-do, thats not me. As strange as it sounds from someone who purposely and knowingly returned to voyage in the roughest place in the world I have no interest in war stories. War stories from the water may be entertaining but they typically mean someone was unprepared, not skilled enough or there was gear failure. I know my boat, I know my skill limitations and I know a little of this place. So I practice patience and I haven't even set sail yet. Its coming and when the day arrives I will march to only my drummer and no other. I long for a great experience and that does not include too much drama. I know know the formula, no conflict equals no drama and no drama means boring. There will be ample left hooks coming my way given the place.

Punta Arenas
A few photos of note:

Where I am currently living..........yes in the tiny boat in the estuary, staged and waiting. Last night it blew up big and I had a lovely warm night aboard sorting gear, reading and falling to sleep with the 40 knot blow whistling through the rigging of the Nao Victoria, HMS Beagle, James Card and the Ancud. Rain added to the mix, not a bad symphony to fall asleep to. Today is bright, cold and even windier.

John camera in hand making his film Below 40 South
 It was from here that Robert Falcon Scott mailed 400 letters from his team before heading south to Antarctica. This spot is adjacent to the Hotel Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn Hotel), which has been my office for several weeks
 Right around the corner from the Hotel Cabo de Hornos is the upstairs room where in 1916 polar explorer and leader of men Ernest Shackleton planned the rescue of his men from Elephant Island. 
The Imperial Transantarctic Expedition of 1914 included tow ships the Endurance and the Aurora. Shackleton was to enter the Weddell Sea leading Endurance. The Aurora entered McCurdo Sound to await Shackletons 2,900km trek. The Endurance became ice bound and after 9 months was crushed leading to perhaps the greatest feat of leadership to date by any man. Shackleton realizing all was lost set out on a desperate voyage with five of his men making S Georgia where they then crossed the island to a Norwegian whaling statin and communication ability. 
I consider this voyage aboard the James Caird to be the greatest sea voyage in history only rivaled by Captain Bligh's open boat voyage after the mutiny on the bounty.
The small cargo ship Yelcho set out from Punta Arenas and crossed the treacherous Drake Passage to make the rescue thanks to Capitan Luis Alberto Pardo Villain and Shackleton.
This humble building above the History Coffee Shop was also used by Shackleton and his men to organize the rescue.

My Voyaging Strategy

Patience! This is the key to sailing successfully in this part of the world for any vessel including my little one. So what does one do during long periods of waiting? Good question and a lesson I learned from my last voyage far south of here in a single Klepper sailing canoe. Have things to do to pass the time. Last round I had so little room and brought only two books. On the tenth day of that voyage I set a cache at Bahia Scourfield in order to lighten my boat and make a run for Cape Horn. I fully intended to return to get the cache. I cached food, three cassette tapes (Mozart, Beethoven and a mix of Hendrix, the Birds and others) and my two books buried in a backpack wrapped in heavy plastic. I never made it back due to weather and had nothing to read or occupy my mind with for the months ahead. Tent bound for twenty of my first twenty one days made for some serious wonder based on boredom all exacerbated by howling winds, snow squalls and rain.

Bahia Scourfield (65 knots)

This time I have a shorter boat but one with greater capacity and so I have diversions. Three penny whistles, two harmonicas, drawing pencils and notebooks, wood carving knives, language courses and books. My friend Keith Nasman emailed that he was curious what is in the library of this small boat voyager so here is the list. First books in print and then a list of electronic reads.

Printed books (the best)
Great Works of Conrad
True Tales of Hawaii
Les Miserables
Blueberry
The Collected Works of John Cheever
The Hunchback of Notre Dame
Rounding The Horn
The Miniature Forests of Cape Horn
Sailing Alone Around The World- Slocum
Shadow Country
The Yiddish Policemans Union
Crime and Punishment
The Best Travel Writing of 2012
Kidnapped
Walden
The Maltese Falcon
Voyage
The Blue of Capricorn
Victory
True Tales of the South Seas
Spanish Language Course
Japanese Language Course

Electronic
The Martian
The Worst Journey In the World
Tinkerbelle
Tales of the New World
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
Open Boat Across the Pacific
Wind, Sand and Stars
Unbroken
The Billionaire and the Mechanic

Audio Books
Midnight In The Garden of Good and Evil
Lonesome Dove
Invisible Man
Born to Run
Failure Is Not An Option
The Alchemist
The Rise and Fall of the Third reich
The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn
1776
The Enchanted Collection
Frankenstein
Parkland
The Invasion of the Body Snatchers
The Boys in the Boat
Basic Training
Command and Control
Napoleon
The Things They Carried
Robinson Crusoe
God Bless You, Mr. Rosewater
The Three Musketeers
To Kill a Mockingbird
The Boys of Everest
The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay
Heart of Darkness
A Man on the Moon
The Caine Mutiny
Endurance
The Aviators
In Cold Blood
The Wind in the Willows
The Wright Brothers
Helter Skelter
Steve Jobs
Seven Years in Tibet

Back To Strategy
In a nutshell- Patience and the wisdom to never set out in unknown or marginal conditions. This said I know my boat and skill set and will inevitably sail in high winds, thats the world here. What I will try to avoid are building conditions. I have a high quality barometer with me and am logging changes in my ships log. I also know it is best to sail on the slack tides here and early mornings/nights when winds are a little lighter. With this in mind I have packed in 14 different headlamps and flashlights and batteries to last for months.

The next piece of my strategy is routine and personal hygiene. I know a little about solo sailing and the most important element is attitude. I am using my days as I wait for a weather window to get into a routine. I try to sleep a set number of hours, get up put my bed roll away. Heat water for morning coffee, grind beans, make a cup as I prepare breakfast. After cleaning dishes and cockpit I will practice good personal hygiene. This might sound odd but it is so important for morale.

Sailing solo means it is easy to spin up a dwindling positive attitude. Before one knows it daily living routine slips, lethargy can set in and lethargy can spell trouble. Trouble can manifest itself as poor decision making, impatience, lack of maintenance on the boat etc. Best to have a routine of sorts and to keep the mind fresh.

Science
The next piece of my strategy is science. I am not a scientist in the trained or classic sense but have consulted with friends who are (Melissa, Skip and Mara) and am going to use my time when at anchor to not only explore but to learn from observation. This is why I am carrying the book, 'The Miniature Forests of Cape Horn."

I am also cataloguing the places I visit with the Yaghan in mind. The last time I voyaged here I inevitably ended up in the very places the Yaghan made camp. I would find shelter remnants, shell middens and this time I am going to film these fascinating places. I am also hoping to visit some of the anchorages used by the HMS Beagle and record what I see there.

Education
I am carrying a sat phone and in the run up to my voyage have been working with two schools and a home school group delivering classroom lessons covering aspects of my voyage. I am really excited about this aspect of what I am doing as I am a former college professor and now the impact I might have on the lives of 4th, 5th and 6th grade students. I was influenced by my 5th grade teacher long ago. Mrs. Craigen. I can hardly remember the names of the many teachers I had but I vividly remember her and how she excited my mind and taught me that to reach for the sky is a good thing, to think in new ways is a good thing, to not listen to all those who would come into my life telling me I couldn't or shouldn't. She taught me to put fear of failure aside and fail like crazy as in failure the best lessons are had! I am thrileld to be teaching live stream with the three school groups.

The Voyage of a Little Ship and Her Best Friend
A larger vision for my voyage has come to me and with a group of talented friends we are working to bring the Voyage of Southern Cross to thousands of school kids around the world. This is something I will be occupying my days with as I wait out conditions and look forward to my return and the next voyage. Stay tuned as we develop the concept and implement it. Glad to have a slid development team working on this vision while I am out of touch.

Below 40 South
I am also filming for the film "Below 40 South" an independent film endeavor by my fiends Dave Nichols and John Welsford. This will also take time and effort and I am doing my part to help them with their vision of producing a credible small boat voyaging documentary. The film is theirs in spite of my being offered a stake in ownership. I couldn't as I am not sailing for profit, I have no profit motive and to this end have stayed away from sponsorship offers.

However I have accepted gifts from friends and am so grateful for the help. At first I found this difficult until my pal Bob Miller cuffed me about a bit;-) and told me to wake up, friends want to help friends. Funny as I have always fancied myself the friend you want as I always try to help others.

I am sure I have missed some names here and will compile and publish a full list of friends who have had a hand in my voyage preparations. It's an amazing list of friends who have helped launch a true friend ship, Southern Cross!

Bob Pattison- Gave me a set of excellent sails made by Neal Pryde. An amazing gift even though I tried to pay him for them. I sent him my drawings and he and I collaborated with input from John Welsford and the Pryde work is perfect. I have along history with Neal Pryde from my years working in the boardsailing industry as the Mistral race team manager and North American Sports Promotions Director. Great gear!
Chuck Leinweber- Beach rollers and fittings I purchased that he would not accept payment for. Thank you Chuck and Thank you Duckworks!!
Josh Colvin- A fantastic Ocean Rodeo dry suit. Thank you again Josh!
Bob Miller- In Reach Delorme tracking device. Thanks Bob!
Dale Simonson, Keith Nasman and Derek Gries- A fine tiller blank from which I made my tiller!
Will Hazel- Who carved the tiller grip and made another device for my boat.
Marty Worline and Dave Chase- A great shipping crate/workshop.
Terry Carolan- Gave me shop space to to part of my build. Thanks Terry.
John Welsford- Friendship and hard work.
Dave and Chris Mergener- A fine place to work and so much more!
The Ortiz Family- The best part of their involvement is friendship.
Sofia Ortiz- She has been such an integral part of getting my boat through Chilean customs and so much more.
Ximena Soto- Thanks!
The Hostal Willitu crew-Thanks
and most importantly of all- My lovely wife Keiko!!






Update from Punta Arenas
Last night I spent my first night aboard Southern Cross since her arrival here in Chile. It was better than could be. Outside the air temperature was snap cold but inside of her low profile tent was snug and warm. She is staged at the Nao Victoria Museo in Punta Arenas a place of amazement to many yet unknown around the world. 

video

video


The museum has invited me to stage for my final preparations to voyage and I am glad to be there, honored actually. They seem as excited to have me as I am to be there in the shadow of so many famous ships. Punta Arenas is a old port city and the embarkation point for many significant voyages south and to the ice of Antarctica. Shackleton, Scott, Amundsen and many others began right here. Of course Magellan, Drake, Fitzroy/Darwin also stopped here before there was a Punta Arenas.

The Mast Build
My project has gone along very smoothly although slowly stretching out to over five years. Work and life dictated how fast I could go. It has also been a challenge affording everything, it costs a bunch to build a boat, equip it and ship it to Patagonia. But dreams are dreams and I believe in living life to the fullest so I kept going in spite of all odds. I am not the chest beating seek sponsorship type for this kind of endeavor. This is a personal voyage and one I don't find particularly worthy from a marketing and promotions view. To me it is just another small boat voyage I am on and not much more than that. I have come to realize that it seems to mean something to others as an inspiration piece and that's begun to make sense to me. I get it as I have been inspired by many others in my life beginning with Robert Many. 

So I made a big error the day before my boat shipped from Michigan and had to go into full on ad lib mode to solve the problem. I accidentally drove over my mizzen mast and crushed it, oops hardly does justice to the moment. In any case I managed to collect a few bare essential materials and in the shipping crate they went. I made the truck the next day with 30 minutes to spare.

Here in Patagonia Chile John my pal and I have built a mast in the open and partially (one half day) in a small shed on the shore of the Strait of Magellan, a shed which produced a full size HMS Beagle, James Caird, Ancud and Nao Victoria amongst other boats. 
Hull model of the HMS Beagle in the shed that built her. My new mizzen mast is sticking out of the door. I rented a power plane to do the initial shaping. John and I figure we built the mast to paint, varnish and hardware in 7 man hours! Not bad for cutting wood in the open rain, shine and really cold weather.

Living Large, err Small
I moved aboard last night and had a lovely night of it as the cold west wind blew. In the low profile high wind tent with padded seats and floor I was toasty warm and fell asleep to the tap tap tap of wavelets kissing the hull. I slept soundly but lightly as I always do on small boats and awoke to early morning birds calling to each other. It was a bright sunny morning and very cold. I sorted gear, restored some items according to my stowage map and then drove to the hotel where John is staying. Punta Arenas is a tough town to find an early breakfast in and Sundays are no exception. We found ourselves back at our usual haunt the Hotel Cabo de Hornos (Hotel Cape Horn) adjacent to the spot where Robert falcon Scott mailed his final packet of letters before going to Antarctica where he perished after making the South Pole. Punta Arenas is steeped in history.

I began final rigging but ran out of time and will finish up tomorrow. I have a few minor elements to complete on the new mizzen mast and a short list of "To Do" projects including final provisions of fresh vegetables and fruit. Then it's all about picking the right weather window. I will be adding consumable stores for the few days I will likely have to wait for the right window so I am not cutting into my 3 month food supply. 

First Challenge
My first challenge will be to hit the early morning high tide just right as the exit from the small estuary where I am moored is not navigable except for a precious few minutes at high tide, which will be very early. If need be I can implement my beach strategy and raise the boat onto air rollers for the last few feet, it's going to be a challenge. Picking the right weather window means everything every day. If I mess up I can be stranded out with no option but to shorten (reef) sail and hope to make shelter somewhere. I have a few options as I head south down the Brunswick Peninsula but none are really good until Puerto del Hambre and that is a stretch for one day but I plan to go for it, no choice really as all coast line south is full exposure except for a few river entrances, which can be treacherous if it blows up.
I'll pass this Cape Horn clipper wreck on the way south out of Punta Arenas
In the background you can see the narrow and dry at any tide other than the "high" high exit from the estuary. Punta Arenas is no place for a yacht or sailboat of any size there is virtually no protection. This little creek at the Museo Nao Victoria is it!

A small fishing village just north of Puerto del Hambre. Not much protection here but I may have to stop and make a go of it given the frequency of high winds.
We scouted south in December (Pals Dr Phil McGowin, John Welsford, Denny McNae and David Nichols. This is the chapel in the tiny fishing village north of Puerto del Hambre. This is Phil (aka Gadget!)
The last bit of civilization I will see before hitting Cabo Froward and south. Two houses, a Carbinero station and a fleet of fishing (Centolla) boats post season. The Centolla season closed on November 30th and the fleet is in for repairs, rest and awaiting the next season. This means the waters south of Punta Arenas will be particularly empty. I will hopefully be here for a night but could end up hiding out due to high winds, we'll see. The last time I sailed the Beagle Channel and south I was tent bound for twenty of the first twenty one days of the journey. The winds blew in excess of 70 knots at times, these were hard days. Patience is the key down here and for this voyage I have a significant library, musical instruments, two language courses, drawing course and audio books.


Build a Boat, Build a Life
Happy New Year!
New Years eve was another magical Chilean experience and one I will not soon forget. John and I were hosted in the home of our Argentinean friend Mauricio Archinti along with his mother and son. What a night. We had a lovely evening with a midnight dinner together, great time. They had stopped by earlier to look at my boat, which has not yet launched but should on Tuesday if the truck I am hiring is free. Mauricio is a friend we met last February who owns the El Bodegon restaurant and who offered to store my shipping crate while I voyage. The hospitality of the people here is legendary, they are warm, engaging and wiling to meet foreigners. Viva Chile!

Yesterday was another day of meeting new people. An American sailor stopped by to see the boat and meet me. He is sailing an Ingrid 38 and we spied him about two weeks ago anchored off of Punta Arenas in the Strait of Magellan. I noted his boat as it is very rare to see a yacht here as there is no harbor and the weather is generally rather treacherous. One day while in town we spotted his dinghy on the beach and I left him a note asking if he had come from the south (where I am headed) as I thought it might be good to talk. I always look for information opportunities. He has been sailing solo for the past 6 years and has been as far west from here as Cape Town and has bounced through a number of Pacific islands. He came here from Argentina and headed south the day before last weeks big blow of 60 knots. He tried to round Cape Froward and was hammered by waves and wind (not even the big blow just Cape Froward) and ended up seeking anchorage off of Froward.

He had an issue radioing the Armada (two day radio checks are required here) and after two days they sent a search plane to find him. Finally they raised him and he was ordered back to Punta to explain why he had not maintained radio contact, a communication snafu for sure.

He stopped by when I was out yesterday and when I came back he and John were talking next to my boat. They came into our hotel room and we offered him breakfast and sat for about two hours talking. I asked why he had come so far and was not sailing south to the good stuff, Beagle Channel, glaciers, etc. He was emphatic that it was sheer madness to do so in a large boat and I had to agree. The poor guy was pretty freaked out by the conditions here and wanted to get west and north as soon as possible. He asked for advice on weather windows, strategy for getting south and north in the west arm of the Strait of Magellan and I gave what I knew. I have been tracking weather daily and he was relieved to hear my observations. We both felt for this guy, alone in a big boat in such a place. He got my boat in spades and agreed it would be the way to go here. He anchors out in true terror, me I can chose to anchor, tie off to shore or even pull my boat on to shore for safety. He unfortunately seemed scared and kind of oblivious to the power of the environment here and this after 6 years of solo sailing. I suggested he had a two day window before the next low rumbles through from the west and yesterday we spied him motoring south to hide out at Dawson Island, a very smart move.

So back to "Build a Boat, Build a Life."

Here is my boat very early in its life. Next to it is my friend Marty Worlines soon to be "Fat Bottom Girl" (love that name).
Photo- In the Shadow of the HMS Beagle, Strait of Magellan, Chile

Here it is December 29th 2016 and I finally have a moment to update my blog. Thanks for waiting!

Ad Lib
Background on the video clip above
Well at least I did it, the pilot error thing that is. Five years of work culminated in the loading of my boat into her ship crate November 6th and 7th. It was harder than I thought and mid load, which was going well actually I pulled a rookie move and drove over Southern Crosses mizzen mast, which had been buried in a pile of leaves after a sudden wind storm. I didn't even feel it. Four hours later I picked it up to load it and discovered it was crushed beyond repair. I was stunned, shocked and for a brief moment I too was crushed but then it dawned on me. I was already voyaging and had to just get on with it for these things happen.

I immediately bucked up (as in seconds) and went into full voyaging "Ad lib mode." The crushing of the mast was a blow but the knock on impact on my overall program was huge. Because of it many other things that had to happen on that day could not happen. I knew I would face an even more complex challenge once in Patagonia with few resources. I tossed the broken spar in the crate and set off to source sitka spruce, more epoxy and the tools necessary to build a mast in the open conditions I would face once south. In the end I had to forego other elements of my plan such as the unassembled small trailer, a bag of navigation gear and about 40% of my provisions. I simply ran out of time to go and get them for shipping. I had less than 12 hours to make the truck and in the end after an all nighter I made it with 30 minutes to spare.

Magic
Now here in the cold and windy far south my pal John Welsford and I have built a mast in the open, in the shipping crate and in a magical shed on the shore of the Strait of Magellan in the shadow of a replica of the HMS Beagle and we did it in less than eight man hours. The spar is not as refined as my original birds mouth beauty but it will more than do. Yesterday I stripped fittings from the original spar and cut it into pieces, so long dear friend. As sappy as those words sound it is how I felt for I have poured care and thoughtfulness into every aspect of the build of my little yacht. Her mizzen was a work of art, a work of art I took a hand saw to in order to get it into a garbage can. So it goes.


The photo above was snapped yesterday at the shed where the new mizzen mast for my boat is being shaped. My pal John has offered to stay on here in Chile and I am glad for his company as he and I tend to laugh a lot and work together in the smoothest fashion. My boat shipped all the way from Michigan without a scratch but needs a new mizzen mast due to pilot error (ha ha). Thats a painful story for another day suffice to say I had a challenge loading the boat in the crate as time was short and ended up breaking the mizzen mast.

A Recap:
I finally completed Southern Cross this past summer and launched her into Lake Michigan for initial sail testing and my first overnight aboard. I was very pleased and glad to have finally gotten her in the water. September found me in Austin texas with my new boat for a film shoot and fitting of cameras for the documentary film. From there I drove west and north to Port Townsend for final fit out and sailing. Finishing the boat took a lot longer than I expected because she has a number of systems that had to be figured out before hand. I attempted to develop new concepts and incorporate older ideas from a life time afloat into the boat so that on launch she would essentially be ready to go. Finishing her also took longer because of my working schedule coming and going to and from Micronesia. I would find a few weeks here and there to work on the boat between ten months or more of work in the islands, this made for slow going. In the end I was pleased with how she ended up and am glad I took the time to work thoughtfully.

October found me in Port Townsend where I sailed some and spent numerous nights aboard, a good but incomplete test period. Time was short as I had work and the voyaging project to juggle.
 Having a bit of hiking fun with my pal Josh at the helm! No I don't normally sail this way but it was a hoot. (Deb Colvin photo)
 Final fit out at the Northwest Maritime Center, Port Townsend. Thank you to the NWMC!!!
First fitting of the dry floor. I am carrying two of these. Thanks to Cutwater Canvas for creating exactly what I designed!
 Emerging from the high wind tent, another collaboration with Cutwater Canvas.
 View from the helm.
Another night aboard a proper yacht, small but proper.

video

November 2016

Hello All

It's been awhile since I have updated this blog. Thanks for waiting. A hectic summer and fall complete with time challenges found me launching my boat later than originally planned. It happens. Managing a project like this without sponsorship and on a shoe string budget is always a challenge and I thank the many friends who have lent a hand!

A Refresher...............or a bit of back story
The boat I have built is a SCAMP sail and oar boat of the micro mini cruiser type. For the past few years I have been part and parcel of the growing SCAMP class in that I have been involved in the build of something like 75 of these neat little boats through the SCAMP Camp program. Builders who participate in this program purchase a kit from Small Craft Advisor magazine and as a group we build for ten days yielding a highly accurate hull for each participant. It is not only productive it is incredibly fun and I am very pleased to have so many new friends from the builds.



The boat in the photo above is my version or modified version of the SCAMP. I developed and built it specifically for the voyage I am now on. All design changes and the build are mine and in no manner imply the stock boat is not right. The stock SCAMP is a great near shore cruiser and day sailor.

I needed something a bit different for where I am about to sail when I set out south on the Strait of Magellan. I have been at this project for years and actually had penned my own design in collaboration with a naval architect but after going back and forth with him the SCAMP design came out and I decided to drop my design and investigate the SCAMP as an alternative as she featured some elements I had not thought of.
(Deb Colvin photo)
This is the stock SCAMP. In this photo I am headed out for the first open water capsize tests in hull #1.

I flew in from Japan for this and had the honor of joining a team to see just what my pal John Welsford had created. Lots of questions in my mind as I sail off in a breeze to flip her over. The day was a bit of a revelation for all of us. The boat performed really well and I (there selfishly to learn more) being the primary guinea pig was very pleased after eight purpose capsizes. Intuitively I knew what she was capable of yet proof of concept is what counts, so I flew in for one cold windy capsize testing experience. I developed the capsize protocol and luckily Josh Colvin (his new boat) gave me thumbs up for static and open eater testing. This is what friends get who trust each other.
Static tests to get the process underway.
About to capsize in open water for the first time. The dry suit helped....sort of, March off of Port Townsend is cold water/cold air a deadly combination.

After capsize testing I applied what I learned to the development of my own boat. I  believe all small boats should be first static capsize tested and then tested in real life conditions, not just a calm day. My friend Josh Colvin (Small Craft Advisor) was all about testing in wind and waves, good on ya Josh. Thanks for the opportunity to allow me to lend a hand Small Craft Advisor!

My original dream and vision was a voyage north from Goose Bay Labrador across the Hudson Strait to Baffin Island and then north coasting Baffin to Cape Dyer. From Cape Dyer I planned to cross the Arctic Sea to Sisimut Greenland. I ran into a challenge I had no answer for. Without going into details it was a major change in Polar Bear movements on the coasts of Labrador and Baffin Island. It seems global warming is real and Polar Bear encounters and a spike in attacks have become a genuine issue for anyone on land on on a boat near shore.

Some years ago I sailed a 15 foot sailing canoe through eastern Tierra del Fuego and south of the Beagle Channel and near the end of this 4 month solo I found myself in the far western Beagle Channel unable to go further due to the onset of early winter. I looked to the southwest and made a promise I would return to explore, little did I know it would be nearly 30 years later! So here I am in Santiago a few days from flying south to Punta Arenas to meet my new boat.

Sometimes Small May Be Better
I have been at the small sailing thing for many years and have built or modified a number of small boats to make them suitable for short cruises, make them safer and capable of being slept aboard at anchor or at the dock.

Small boats in the hands of a conservative sailor may offer a few advantages larger boats cannot.
1. They are affordable whether new or used.
2. They can be kinetically controlled by movement of body mass by the sailor when underway.
3. They can be easily self rescued if set up properly.
4. Perhaps most importantly they can be hauled on shore when nasty weather looms.

Below is but one iteration of my passion and pursuit, the modern sailing canoe. The photo below is a canoe I developed and have cruised and sailed for some 15 years.

Hugh Horton photo

Here is another. A Mirror Dinghy I modified and cruised for a number of years using a tent I built for it. Not a great photo but it does show my Mirror the "African Queen" on the hook.


Here is another of my small, well not that small cruising boats with tent, a 23 foot Dick Newick Tremolino Tri...........what a boat!...........and an upper limit stretch in size from micro mini cruiser.


A Complex Project
Developing and building a boat for a voyage through southern Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego is quite an undertaking but only one small part of the whole equation. This equation contains elements of feasibility, suitability, safety, very specific gear, provisioning, shipping, navigation, power generation and storage, just to name a few.


She Launches
On August 14th I quietly launched Southern Cross into Little Traverse Bay, Lake Michigan. She was only in for a couple of days as again my free time was short (headed for Port Townsend to teach a boat building course). She sailed much as I expected or I should say hoped for. Its always dicey to alter a sound design by someone else and expect good results. I have been very careful and stepwise in my modification process and I think, just maybe that with Southern Crosses split rig and other modifications that I may heave created a boat that I like, she sails well. I have sailed many stock SCAMP's (lug rigged) across a variety of conditions and although my initial sails were both in light air I just had this feeling I was on to something good. The boat was a lively and maneuverable as any SCAMP and seemed better balanced and steady with the split rig.

I had her rigged just to make a first sail, no tuning, furling system not set up, reefs not set up, jib leads not yet installed (I wanted to wait until I hoisted sail to determine sheet leads) granny knots here and there to test placements, etc. Still she sailed like a dream. Very excited to get back from Port Townsend for some windy September/October sail testing.

Here she is post sailing, jib housed below in the cuddy rigged on a deploy/retrieve system. The headsails and for that matter all controls including sea anchor (para-anchor) operate from the cockpit.

In this photo the seat cushions can be seen. Each attaches to the boat by strips of 2" velcro and hard fasteners to ensure they stay in place. Missing in this photo are the floor cushions. The entire cockpit is padded for safety, comfort and as a big part of safety extra fixed flotation. The floor cushions can be used in place or easily stowed forward in the cuddy. Each cushion has a tan slip cover to help keep them clean, a working surface.
The oars tuck in nicely behind the cushions without the need for bungee cords or tie ins. The cushions keep them locked in place yet they can be easily withdrawn for quick use. Each oar is on a leash attached to the boat.

The floating thwart is for trimming the main, flipped over it has a 3" thick cellular foam seat for rowing and snap the seat off and the thwart becomes they base for the galley, work bench, etc. It slides in and out easily for opening the floor space for sleeping.

Not a very clear photo but one that shows some of the hardware layout. While it all looks busy its really not. The pink line for example is the deploy/retrieve line for the staysail/spitfire jib. On the port side leading forward you can see the white line for the genoa deploy/retrieval system. 

The main and peak halyard are also color coded as are all lines for ease of instant identification and both are lead through a double clutch and backed with horn cleats. Any can cleat on the boat is also backed with a horn cleat. Could be trouble at the wrong moment to lose a halyard or other control line should it pop out of the cam cleat.

All fwd and aft lines go into their respective stowage bags (red pockets hanging on aft end of the cuddy). There is another pocket line control set up for the mizzen.

In the photo above you can see the genoa stuffed into the cuddy. I had just come in and retrieved the jib using the system and simply stuffed it ready to go again or to derig. There is a cloth closure door for the cuddy. The door is part of the cuddy inflation set up. Most sailing I will do in the south will be with inflated cuddy cabin as righting data shows she should not stay turtled if capsized.

A few screen captures from a video camera recording the first sail. Not much wind but like most SCAMP's she moved really well and in one slightly gusty time in the afternoon I put the padded hiking seats to work and was fully hiked out toes under the hiking strap. It was great sailing!

Like other SCAMP's Southern Cross will basically turn in its own length. If you note my height as 5' 11" and then look at the photo you can discern the value of the footwell I have designed in. I am standing in the three photos above, nice and low where my weight means something. The footwell gives the boat a completely different feel, secure, stable and for the sailor a feeling of greater protection. I like it and am glad I took the chance to follow my hunch on designing in and installing the footwell. In my opinion it really adds to the boat and with two drop in floor boards the foot  well goes away in seconds for sleeping or if I just decide to sail without it.

I went old school on some aspects of the build and quite modern in others, a good blend I think.
The mast hoops may seem an anachronism but in my experience there are very few simpler and faster sail attachment methods than hoops.
 In this photo you can see the yet to be attached anchor cover (red). Two of three anchors stow (are lashed) on top of the lazarette under the tiller. They are on their own mounted and hinged platform. The cover will keep lines from snagging on them. Two anchor rodes are stowed aft, one leads forward and one over the transom. A third anchor is located starboard just inside the cuddy. In the photo above I have temporarily lashed the tiller amidships with the traveler line ends so I could head up the dock for a cold drink. Velcro for floor cushions can also be seen as well as the 10gpm Whalegusher pump, electric switch for the electric bilge pump and cockpit mounts for pump handle, paddle and boat hook.
In this photo you can see the forward anchoring system mounted on the side of the cabin. Two of the three camera mounts can also be seen on the added cuddy cabin aft bulkheads.

 I will be utilizing two different cockpit tents on Southern Cross. The one in the photo above is the prototype (no pole, no bow) high wind or survival tent. The other tent is a taller affair (more living space) to be used judiciously given the weather/wind conditions in Tierra del Fuego. The larger tent is set up for a wood stove, the high wind tent is not. I am carrying a third land tent (a one man mountaineering tent able to withstand extreme winds. If I am land bound it means it is howling so I need a tent that can handle the extremes. On my last voyage to Cape Horn in a fifteen ft sailing canoe space was at a much higher premium than with SCAMP. I had to find the smallest, toughest tent possible and ended up with a Bibler ITent. What a fine piece of equipment so lo these many years later I am going with what I know, the same tent but new.

I did spend a first night aboard and it was so comfortable with all the cushions. The cushions also provide insulation from the cold of the Strait of Magellan, Beagle Channel and the Southern Ocean.
The classic Bibler ITent. Easy to be fooled by its simple look but look a bit deeper and the brilliance of the design comes through. My Bibler has a bullet shaped vestibule. On my last voyage in Tierra del Fuego I would orient the bullet shape into the wind and hang on for sleep often a big challenge when its blowing over fifty knots for days on end.
Nice feeling to have the complexity of the build and all the head scratching modifications behind me. Now its time to test and sail the paint off the bottom before she goes in the shipping crate bound for Tierra del Fuego. In the coming weeks I will be conducting sea trials, capsize/recovery, loading and provisioning. Keiko now kicks in as we plan and begin preparing food stores for the voyage. All of this is very interesting, challenging and made all the better by the dedicated friends who have taken an interest and lend a hand. I appreciate all of you very much.

Here are a few other photos that may be of interest.

John and I at the Naval Mapping Institute in Santiago where I purchased topographic maps of southern Tierra del Fuego. Sofia Ortiz escorted us there. She and her family have become such friends, Chileans are like that, plain and simple open hearted and friendly. Thanks for all you have done Sofia!


Big news- John Welsford has teamed up with film maker Dave Nichols and through their partnership they will produce the film about my planned voyage. Dave was going solo on producing Below 40 South but now has allies in John and friend/sailor/writer Tom Pamperin. 

Southern Crosses shipping crate. The crate was built by friends Dave Chase and Marty Worline. Since I elected to delay to this fall the crate has been in storage covered and now features its own wheels. I purchased an old powerboat trailer and built a crate trailer from it. The trailer is the temporary means I will use to deliver the boat to a shipping terminal for the domestic road trip to Cargonauts (Chilean shipping company) in Miami. There it will be containerized for a six week ocean voyage through the Panama Canal and on to Chile. I will fly down to be there when the crate arrives. Game on!
This is the dock in Punta Arenas where a crated Southern Cross will arrive. This is the dock used to re-supply the Chilean Antarctic base and for deployment of ships to and from Antarctica. Lucky for me the one place John and I scouted that would be suitable (protected enough) for me to stage and prepare Southern Cross from is adjacent to the dock. This was quite a find in Punta Arenas, which is not a waterfront friendly place for ships or boats of any kind. Windy, rough, no protection. Well we found one little niche of a spot on the shoreline in town and at the dock. This makes for an easy move from the shipping crate to the water.
John and I will have to move the boat only about 100 yards from the customs dock to this spot where in spite of its relative ugliness is the best or only spot in Punta to stage and launch a small boat from.

Now that I am sailing I will get back to posting sea trial and preparation information as it happens.
Thanks for reading.